Jebel Jais, on the border between Ras Al Khaimah and Oman, is the highest point in the UAE at 1,934 metres. The road to the summit was built in 2017 specifically for tourism at a cost of a billion dirhams: 36 kilometres of wide two-lane asphalt with widenings, barriers along its entire length, viewpoints every few kilometres and lighting on the difficult sections. In winter the top can drop to 5 degrees with fog; in summer it is 25 instead of 45 below, and in 2020 it even hailed there, which made national news.

The route from Dubai

Take the E311 or E611 north to Ras Al Khaimah, 110 km and an hour and fifteen minutes. Then east through the city following Jebel Jais signs, another 30 km across the plain to the foot of the climb. The 36 km ascent itself takes 40 minutes at a relaxed pace, or an hour with viewpoint stops. Total from the Marina is 2 hours 15 minutes, from Deira about 2 hours. There are no toll roads apart from the Salik gantry leaving Dubai.

Fill up in Ras Al Khaimah: there are no petrol stations on the mountain at all, and descending on a near-empty tank is unpleasant because air conditioning and engine braking use fuel differently from what you expect. An SUV is not needed, the road is better than many European mountain routes, but a car with a strong engine is more enjoyable on the 12 percent gradients.

What is on the mountain

  • Viewpoints throughout the climb, with free parking, shade structures and bins. The best views come from the last three platforms before the summit, looking across neighbouring ridges into Omani territory.
  • Jais Flight, the world's longest zipline according to Guinness World Records: 2.83 km at up to 150 km/h, flown lying down in a superman position for about three minutes. From AED 650, book ahead; in winter the queue runs a week out. Weight and age limits apply.
  • Jais Sledder, the longest toboggan on rails in the Middle East, 1.84 km of turns and banked curves, around AED 60. Suitable for children from 8.
  • Jais Sky Tour, a series of six shorter ziplines between platforms on the slope for those who find the long flight too much.
  • 1484 by Puro restaurant at 1,484 metres, the highest point you can drive to. A terrace facing the sunset; book ahead, especially at weekends.
  • Marked hiking trails from 1 to 5 km at varying difficulty, starting from platforms at different heights. Autumn and winter only, with water and closed shoes.
  • Bear Grylls Explorers Camp on the slope for overnight stays in domes or tents with a survival programme.
  • Jais Viewing Deck Park with an amphitheatre and evening lighting.

When to go

The best season is November to March. On winter weekends a queue of cars forms on the summit road by midday and the zipline and restaurant car parks fill up, so either leave early and be at the top by 9 am, or arrive after 4 pm for sunset. In summer an evening trip works well: it is cool at the top and after sunset families from Ras Al Khaimah sit there with flasks of tea. Bring a jacket or hoodie: the temperature gap with Dubai reaches 15 to 20 degrees, and after the heat below, 20 degrees at the summit feels cold.

What else to see in Ras Al Khaimah

The emirate deserves a day of its own rather than just a drive to the mountain. There are the beaches of Al Marjan Island with hotels and public stretches, the old town with its fort and National Museum in the former ruler's residence, Dhayah Fort on a hill overlooking the sea and palm groves, mangroves for kayaking along the coast, and the abandoned village of Al Jazirah Al Hamra with its coral-stone houses, known as the ghost town. There are also pottery workshops, since the emirate historically specialised in clay vessels.

Mileage and cost

The loop from Dubai including the climb and return is 330 to 350 km, slightly over the daily cap. Fuel runs AED 60 to 70 in a sedan and 100 to 120 in a large SUV: climbing and descending consume noticeably more than flat driving. For this trip it is often better value to take the car for two days with a night on the Ras Al Khaimah coast: in winter it is the calmest and cheapest part of the country, with hotels at half Dubai prices.

Safety on the switchbacks

The road is excellent, but 36 km of climbing and the same descent demand attention. Going down, shift to manual mode or L and use engine braking, otherwise the brakes overheat and the pedal goes soft. Do not stop on the carriageway for photos; that is what the lay-bys are for. Watch for fog: cloud can descend within ten minutes and visibility drops to twenty metres, so use fog lights and slow down. At night wild goats appear on the road.

Which car to take

For driving pleasure: Audi RS3, Porsche Taycan, BMW M4, Range Rover Sport or any powerful crossover. For a family: Kia Sportage, Toyota RAV4, Hyundai Santa Fe. An economy sedan will get there, but the climb with four passengers and air conditioning will be slow, and on the descent you will need to watch the brakes especially carefully because of the weaker cooling system.

The Jais Flight zipline explained

The world's longest zipline according to Guinness World Records: 2,832 metres of cable, a 500-metre drop, speeds up to 150 km/h and a flight lasting about three minutes. You fly face down in a superman position, secured in a harness.

Requirements: minimum age 12, weight 45 to 150 kg, height from 130 cm. Not permitted during pregnancy or with heart and spinal conditions. Prices start at AED 650 and include the briefing, equipment, transport to the launch platform, with flight video for an extra fee.

Book ahead; in winter slots are taken a week in advance, especially at weekends. Flights are cancelled in high winds and either rescheduled or refunded. Arrive an hour before your slot, as briefing, weighing and preparation take time.

For those who find the long flight too much, there is the Jais Sky Tour: six shorter ziplines between platforms on the slope for around AED 400, and the Jais Sledder, a 1.8 km toboggan on rails for AED 60, suitable for children from age 8.

Ras Al Khaimah as a destination in its own right

The emirate deserves two days rather than a drive-through to the mountain. What is here:

  • Al Marjan Island: a man-made archipelago with hotels, beaches and the UAE's first casino resort, Wynn, opening in the coming years.
  • Al Jazirah Al Hamra: an abandoned coral-stone village left in 1968. Houses, a mosque and a market stand empty, and it is known as the ghost town. Free entry, best in the morning.
  • Dhayah Fort: a 16th-century fortress and the only hilltop fort in the UAE, overlooking palm groves and the sea. A fifteen-minute climb by steps.
  • The National Museum in the former ruler's residence, covering archaeology and ethnography.
  • Coastal mangroves for kayaking among birdlife, with kayak hire from AED 100.
  • Pottery workshops: the emirate historically specialised in clay vessels, and working studios sell their pieces.
  • Khatt hot springs half an hour from the city, with sulphur baths.

Practicalities for the mountain

Filling up in Ras Al Khaimah is essential; there are no stations on the mountain. Bring water and warm clothing, as even in summer the summit is cool in the evening. Mobile coverage exists on the road but drops at some viewpoints. Toilets and a cafe are at the zipline platform, with the 1484 restaurant at the top.

The best time to drive up is ninety minutes before sunset, catching daytime views, the sunset itself and the lit road on the way down. Book the 1484 restaurant ahead; window tables are taken a week in advance during the season.